Category Archives: Savories

making pizza in naples, italy

My wife and I just got back from a 2-week vacation in Europe. We went to Messina, Venice, Dubrovnik, Florence, Pisa, Rome, Cannes, Nice, Barcelona, and Naples -- it was a whirlwind! Perhaps my favorite memory from the whole trip, though, is getting a pizza-making lesson in Naples. Here are some pics: The Pizzaiolo at Les GaGá, GiGi. He didn't speak a ton of English. Mostly GiGi's instruction was, "not-ta too much-a." He uses only San Marzano tomatoes in his sauce, plus buffalo mozzarella, Read more [...]

quadruple dairy noodle kugel

Not being Jewish myself, some of my friends look at me funny when I share my passion for certain Jewish delicacies. Latkes, tzimmes, challah -- this goy loves 'em. It probably stems from my Grandmother growing up in Brooklyn in the early to mid-20th century, where Jews and Italians shared neighborhoods and traditions. So as a nod to my Jewish friends this Hanukkah, I offer my recipe for noodle kugel, a baked custard that is rich and satisfying on its own or as an accompaniment to a holiday meal:1 Read more [...]

drying the turkey (but not "dry" turkey)

The turkey, she's a beaut -- 18 pounds of heritage-bred fowl, she's safely tucked away in the refrigerator, air drying in order to ensure crisp skin along with the juicy, flavorful meat that will occur as a result of a day-long soak in brine.The plan is to slather her in butter and use the roasting method called for by Cook's Illustrated magazine.We traditionally roast our bird early and let it come to room temperature before we eat dinner. This frees up the oven and gives my mom and I a chance Read more [...]

the turkey is in the brine…

I know it's Monday. I know that Thanksgiving is on Thursday. I know you think I'm crazy when I tell you that my turkey, pictured at right, is already submerged in a flavorful brine.You might ask, "Won't it be too salty?"No sir, this bird is going to get pulled out tomorrow night, after 24 hours in the drink. Following that, she'll spend a day-and-a-half air-drying in the refrigerator. You see, brining does such a damned fine job of plumping up all of the turkey's protein cells with flavor-infused Read more [...]